Overedge sewing machine



May 4, 1948. N. KNAUS OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 10, 1946 '4Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR. JV'z'choZaus Wage/ms ATTORNEY May 4, 1948. N,KNAUS 2 ,441,099

OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 10, 1946 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN V ENTOR.

dVichoZa/us 76mm; I

y QM ATTORNEY WITNESS May 4, 1948. N. KNAUS 4 2,441,099

OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 10) 1946 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 IN VENTOR. c/Vz'c/z olaus m mus B Y WITNESS ATTORNEY v Patented May 4, 1948zuuirrzao :s'mrss PATENT :oFFicE DWERED GE "SEWING MACHINENi'cholaus-Knaus,iGranfo1-d, N. J., assignor toiThe BSinger Manufacturing Company, Elizabeth, Nil, a corporafiuno'fiNew Jerseyhpplicationsepteni'ber 10, 1946;SeiiztlNofi6951985 disclaims. 1

This invention relates to overedgeseviing machines'and morepartictilarly'-to means 'emb'odie'd therein for hem-folding the marginalportions of 'both flat and tubular workpiecesand iorso presenting thefolded workpieces to the trimming and stitch-forming mechanisms that theprojecting edge portion "or each workpiece *is trimmed ofi substantiallyin 'line with the fold and the hem is secured to '-the body material bya blind-stitch overed-ge seam.

-A primary objectof the inverition' is to 'pr'ovid'e an improved-mounting for the hem-folder whereby the "machine "will "be devoid ofcertain obstructions which, in prior=ma'cl'ii1'i'es,have interfered withthe'free-passage-of the work -and have caused snarling *d'f the trimmeddfi porticn of the work and, when hemming tubular work, of thethread-chainwlii'ch is connected to the work at the be'ginning end oftheseam.

Another object of the invention is ftoipfovide an improved hem-folderwhich may befuse'd' for foldingeither tubularor flat work.

Another object-is to-provide, "a throw-out hemfolder having readilyreleasable-Hatch "means for holding the hem-folder in its operativeposition.

-Still another object is to provide an improved mounting for 'a hemfolder' which 'afiords means for adjusting the hem-folder relative tothe stitching pointin a plurality f transverse directions.

With the above and 'otherobjects in view,-'-as will hereinafter appear,the invention comprises the devices, combinations and "arrangements ofparts hereinafter set forthandillustrated in the accompanying drawingsof "apreferred embodimentof the invention, from'which the severalfeatures 'of the invention and the "advantages attained thereby will -bereadily "understood by those skilled in the 'art.

-In the drawings "Fig. "1 is a frontelevationgpartly-in section,of'a'portion of an overedgesewingmachineshowing it fitted with "oneformer improved hemfolder adapted for hem-"folding both fiat and tubularwork-pieces.

Fig. '2 is a plan view'o'f that "portion of "th machine illustrated inFig. 1.

Fig. Sis a left-end view there'o'i'.

Fig. 4 is a transverse vertical section "taken substantially on the line4-4 of Fig.

FigJS is a detail horizontal section taken substantially on the line ii-5 of "Fig.

Fig. -'6 'is adetail horizontal section taken on thedinefi-G of Fig. 1.

Fig. is a detail vertical sectional "view-taken on *theline "'l1"o-fFig. 4.

Fig. *8 is a detail horizontal section takenon the line 8- 8 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 9 is a detail vertical section'takenpnthe line 9*9"o'f Fig. "2.

(Chill-162') Fig. 10 is a disassembled perspective view of an edge-guidehereinafter to be described.

"Fi'g. 1 1 is a *di's'assembledperspective view of the sup'por-tingmeans for the hem-lioldershjown in'Fig. "1.

Fig. 12 I is a perspective-vi'ewiof za' mo'difiedliform of hammerparticularly adapted Ifor :hem-iolding fiat, or=so-ca11ed open end,workpieces.

Fig. 13 1s a perspective viewzo'f a second modified iorm of hemm'erparticularly adapted for hem-folding tubular workpieces.

Refer-ring :more specifically it'ofith'e :drawings, the invention isshown as :tembodie'd :in an overedge sewing machine (of the "type:disclosed in United States :patent :cflN. :Knaus, LNo. 2338,796, Apr.15, 21941.

line lmachineflias a imain .frame F Jc'omprising a base portion l and anupstanding portion 2. I he -base portion carries a horizontally disposedwork-supporting plate 3 and a throat-plate "4 provided with slotsthrough which operates :serrated reed-dogs forming a part of workfeeding mechanism hereinafter referred to. The -main frame also supportsoveredge stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating curvedneedle tipan under or nee'clle-loop-taking threadcarryinglooper liand-anoveredgelooper or 'loopspreader 1 whioh oooperates with the"needle '5 and looper 6 in the formation of 'overedge stitches. I hemachine also includes a conventional work-feeding mechanism designated"generally as anda cooperating presser-device for advancing the work toand beyond the stitchiorming mechanism. The presser-device comprises ahorizontally -'disposed spring-depressed presser bar-fl pivoted, atits-reanend, to the machine frame andcarrying, at its iorwar'd end, apresser-foo't 9 which overlies the serrated feeddogs which form a partof the workfeeding mechanism. The machine further includes a trimming"mechanism adapted to trim the work atone side of the lineof seamformation. The trimming mechanism includes a vibratory 'trimmer-bar l0actuated from the main -sha'ft'of the a machine and carrying at itsforward endamovable 'trimmer blade H which cooperates with a stationarytrimmer blade P2 carried by'the base portion 1 'ofthe-machine frame.Inasmuch as the specific constructions of 'the'stitchiormirig, 60Work-feeding and "work-trimming mechanisms are shown in the "abovementioned .patent and form no part of the .present invention, ."furtherillustration 'and "description thereof is deemed unnecessary.

As hereinbefore indicated, -this invention Lrelates "primarily toimproved .mefans, "embodied in a machine '01? :the type above described,for .so presenting theworkto' the stitch=forming mechanismthat themarginal .portion of the work is 60 "folded into flattened is-shape,with Ithe :upperovercdge seam which covers the trimmed edge and securesthe hem to the body of fabric by so -called blind stitching."

entering and l3 and the guide block G carried thereby are adjustablebodily lengthwise of the support and transversely of the line of scamformation by an adjusting screw I1. The guide block G is formed .with avertically disposed edge-guiding face I8 which engages and guides thatportion of the f blade of the hem-folder.

carried by and projecting downwardly from the block G, enter,respectively, apertures w and 20 When hemming tubular work th stitchingmay.

commence at any point and proceed around the work until the point ofbeginning has again reached the stitching point. In positioning tubularwork in the machine, preparatory to the beginning of the hemmingoperation, it is customary to raise the presser-foot and to move theworkback and forth by hand, in the line of seam formation, through thehem-folder and beneath the presser-foot until the work is properlyfolded and properly positioned relative to the trimming andstitch-forming mechanisms; after which the presser-foot is lowered andthe sewing begun. For this purpose it is desirable that the hemfolder bemaintained in its working position.

In preparing to hem fiat work, in which the hemming starts at one edgeof the work andrprogresses thereacross to the opposite edge thereof, itis customary to swing the hem-folder upwardly and out of workingposition; then to hem-fold the marginal portion of the work manually andinsert it between the presser-foot and the underlying cloth-plate andfeed-dog, and thereafter to swing the hem-folder downwardly intooperative position with the blade of the hem-folder inserted between thelowertwo plies of the folded hem. I When hemming either tubular orflatwork, it is desirable that the hem-folder be permitted to have aslight rising and falling movement in its operative position. Thismovement permits the folder to adapt itself to variations in thethickness of the work such, for example, as when a cross-seam is passingthrough the folder, and it also permits the folder to rise and fall withthe work under the action of the feed-dog.

The hem -folder disclosed in Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive and 6, 7 and 9 isadapted for hem-folding both flat and tubular work. In other words it isadapted to be swung upwardly and out of working position to facilitatethe introduction of flat work and it is also adapted to be locked in itsworking position which is desirable when introducingand hemming tubularwork.

The hem-folder disclosed in Fig. 12, which is adapted primarily forhem-folding flat workpieces, diifers from that shown in Figs. 1 to 4, 6,7 and 9 in that it has no means for locking it in its working position,

v The form illustrated in Fig. 13 is specifically designed forhem-folding tubular workpieces and, aside from a slight rising andfalling movement under variation in the thickness of the work and theaction of the feed-dog, as above described, is permanently maintained inits working position.

All of the three forms of hem-folders are adapted to be removablysecured upon a common supporting bracket adjustably mounted in theupstanding portion 2 of the machine frame'as here inafter will bedescribed.

Cooperating with each of the three forms of hem-folders is an edge guidecomprising a horizontally disposed block G mounted for horizontalfloating movements on a saddle l3 adjustably secured upon support 14fixed, by a screw l5, to the pedestal portion [6 of the base I. Thesaddle workpiece which is folded about the work-foldin Pins I9, 20 and2|,

and ,2! inthe saddle [3 thus permitting the block to be moved bodily onthe saddle transversely":ofithe guiding face l8 and consequentlytransversely of the line of seam formation. A coil spring 22, seated ina cavity 23 aligned with the aperture 20, has its outer end in enagement with the pin 20 andnormally shifts the pin and theguide-block Gtoward the work-folding blade until the pin [9 engages the wall 19* ofthe aperture 19 and the pin 2| engages a wall 24 forming a part of afixed edge-guiding block 25 secured to the saddle 13 by a screw 26. Inaddition to its bodily movements transversely of the line of scamformation, the guide block G is adapted to have pivotal movements aboutthe pins l9 and 2|. Thus the guide-block is mounted to have pivotal andbodily floating movements in a horizontal plane to facilitate thepassage and guidance of a workpiece having an irregular folded edge,such, for example, as one having a cross-seam. A floating edge guide ofthis general nature is disclosed, in more detail, in the pending UnitedStates patent application of N. Knaus and P. Anton, Serial No. 626,936,filed Nov. 6, 1945.

It is to be noted that theedge guide G and the mount therefor aresupported by the base I below the level of the work, while thehem-folders, which cooperate with the edge-guide, are supported abovethe level of the work, thereby providing an unobstructed passagewaytherebetween for the passage of the work. This specific mounting of theparts is an important feature of the present invention.

Each of the three hem-folders disclosed in the drawings is adapted tobeattache'd, selectively. to a vertically disposed bracket 21 secured,at its upper end, by screw 28 to a two-part slide block 29, mounted forhorizontal adjustment transversely of the'line of seam formation in thehead 30* of a stud 30 adjustably mounted in a bore 3! in the upstandingportion '2 of the frame F. Thus the stud 30, the block 29, bracket 21and the parts carried thereby may be adjusted parallel to the line ofscam formation and held in their various positions of adjustment bymeans of a set screw 32 threaded into the portion 2 of the frame andbearing upon a flattened surface on the stud 30. The block 29 and thebracket 21 carried thereby may be adjusted on the head 30 transverselyof the line of seam formation, by an adjusting screw 33 threaded intothe head 30 and having a collar 34 engaging in a not-ch 2i! in theslideblock 29 (Fig. 8).

As hereinbefore stated, any one of a plurality of hem-folders may bemounted upon the supporting bracket 21. T thatend, the bracket is formedwith a U-shaped lower end comprising upright arms 21 and 21 and aconnecting lower wall 21. The arms 21 and 21 are provided with alignedapertures 35 and 36 which are designed to receive a removable andreplaceable pivot pin 31 upon which a carrier for the hem-folding bladeof each hem-folder is adapted tobemounted.

Referring first to the hem-folder adapted speerratum hem-foldingblade38-is shown as having itsshank 39 secured, by a screw 40 upon theupper endoia block or carrier 4| pivotally mounted on the pivot pin 31-.As hereinbefore stated the hem-folder for tubular work is preferablymaintained in its working positionbut is adapted to have a slight 2*! ofthe bracket 21. The pin 42' is somewhat less'in diameter than the widthofthe slot and therefore is free to be moved sidewise therein thuspermitting but limiting the turning move-- ment of the block 4| and thehem-folding blade carried thereby.

The construction disclosed in Fig. 1-2 is designed particularly forhem-folding flat work, in the introduction of which it is desirable toswing the hem-folder upwardly and out of its operative position untilthe beginning end of the work has been placed beneath the presser-footand" the initialhem-fold has been made manually. Inthis form ahem-folding blade 44 has its shank 45 secured by bolt 46. to a hingeblock 41 pivoted, at 48, to an extension 49 of a; carrier block 49pivotally mounted, on the pivot pin 31, in. the arms 21 and 21 of thebracket 21'. A stop-plate 59, adjustably secured upon the. upper end ofthe block 49 by a screw i passing through a slot 59 in the plate, hasdown-turned fingers 52 which engage the straight rear wall 41- of thehinge block 41 and limit the downward movement of the block 41 and thehem-folder carried thereby. By adjusting the plate lengthwise. of theslot se the vertical position of the blade 44 maybe varied. The block 49carries a pin 53 which is located within the slot 43 in the arm 21 ofthe bracket 21. This pin is-of greater diameter than the pin 42 and doesnot have any lateral movement in the slot 43; the pivotalmovement of theblade 44 being about the'aXls of the pivot 48.

Likewise the bracket 2'! is adapted to have secured thereto theuniversal hem-folder, shown in Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive and 6, 7 and 9.This folder is designed to handle either fiat workpieces or tubularworkpieces with-equalfacility; being locked inoperative position whenhem-folding tubular workpieces. and capable of being swung upwardly outof operative position for the insertion of flat workpieces.

To that end, the device. comprises a hem-folding blade 54 having aslotted shank 55 adapted to be secured upon a hinge member 55. by aclamp screw 51 (Fig. '7). Intermediate its ends, the member 56 ispivotally mounted, by a pin 58, on the extended portions 59 of a carrierblock 59 adapted to be pivotally mounted, by the pin 31 hereinbeforementioned, between the arms 21 and 21 of the bracket 21. The block59carries a pin 60 having a projecting end which'is located in the slottically disposed finger-actuated lever 6| the shank of which is locatedin a slot 52 in the block 59. The lever is pivotally mounted, at itslower end, upon a bolt 63 extending through the'portions 59 of the blockand through an apertureS-I of thelever. A nut 54 threaded'on. the bolt63 hoidsthe bolt against?endwisa-dispiacement. liiitending transverselythrough the: latch lever '61 is a pin. 65 the projectingportions ofwhich are adapted to enternotches 56 iormedii'n the hinge 1' member 55,-as shown infull lines in Fig. 1-, there-- by to lock the parts together.The lever BI is normally urged to turn in acounterclockwise direction asseen in Figs. 1 and- 7, by two coil springs 56 seated in sockets 61'formed in an inverted L-shaped capplate 58', secured to thebl'ock '59 byscrew 69 The projecting ends of the springs 56 bear upon the pin'55;Thelatchlever 6| may be turned clockwise, in opposition to the springs56 by means of pressure appliedmanually toa disk-like portion Gi -formedon the upper end" of the lever 61'. Thus the walls of the notches 56 inthe member and the spring-pressed pin constitute a latch device forholding the hemfolder in its operative position, while the lever 6l-'-8lconstitutes means for releasing the latch to permit the hem-folder to beswung: out of its operative position, as indicated in dotted lines inFig. 1, to facilitate theintroduction offiat work. The lower walls ofthe notches 5t project beyond the upper walls thereof and constituteabutments which engage the under surface of the pin 65,

thereby limiting the counterclockwisemovement of the member 56 and the"hemefol'der carried thereby and aligning the notches, 56* with the pin.

Means also is provided for automaticallyswinging the hem-iolder'to' theinoperative position illustrated in dotted lines in Fig; 1 when thelever 5|" is shifted to release the member 56''. This means comprises aplunger, consistingoi" apin l0 slidingly mounted in a bore H in theblock 591and a coil spring 12 bearingv upon one endofi the pin andurging its opposite end into pressure contact with the member 56 below"the pivot 58,. as shown in Fig. 7. The spring. 12 is. held in the bore Hand maintained under pressure by the. downwardl extending, portion ofthe plate 68'. Thus when the hem folder is held in itsoperativepositionv by the latch. 55 65, the hinge member 56 is maintained underspringpressllre. Consequently, the instant the latch is. releasedthespring plunger 10 turns the member 5Bclockwise (Figs .1 and 7)sum'ciently to shiftthe notch. 5 6 out of. the path:

of the pin 65. If the latch is. released suddenly,. the force of theplunger is. released instantaneously and the. limited movement of theplunger tends to kick. the hem-folder upwardly into-its retractedposition shown in dottedv lines inFigl. However, if the latch isreleased more gradually the action of the plunger may not besuflicientto shift the hem-folder to its. completely retracted. position. In thatcase,. the return movement of. the latch-releasing lever 64, under theinfluence of the springs 66 will cause" the pin to be brought. intopressure contact: withcam surfaces 56 on the member 55 with the resultthat the pressure of the pin or those surfaces-willcontinue the turningmovement of the member 55 untilthe hem-folder is. fully retractedvRegardless: of whether the hem-folder is retractedzsolely by the plunger10' or by the plunger! in-combinationwith the pressure: of' the pin 65-on the: cam surfaces. 5.6, thepressure ofv the pin 65 against the :flatsurfaces 56 of. the member 56 will hold the hem-- folder in itsretracted position until it is manually pressed downwardly intooperativet position,

From the foregoing it will be-perceive'd thatt'he: hem=folders are.supported from the 'upperportion ofzthe machine-frame above-the-planesottherwork while the cooperating ,edge-. below that plane.

As illustrated in Fig. 1 a workpiece passes over the work-supportingplate 3 and has its marginal portion folded into flattened S-shape andpassed to the trimming and stitch-forming mechanisms by the combinedactions of the hem-folder and the edge-guide. That portion of theworkpiec which extends to the right beyond the lower fold t is trimmedoh by the trimming mechanism as is also the thread-chain which is formedpreparatory to the sewing of a tubular article.

The specific mounting of the edge-guide and the hem-folder affords anunobstructed passageway therebetween and thus there is nothing toobstruct the freepassage of the thread chain and trimmed off marginalportion. To facilitate gravitational discharge of the trimmed off partsof the workpiece, the upper surface of the guide block G is bevelledlaterally as indicated at g and longitudinally as indicated at g.Cooperating with the bevels g and g, in removing the trimmings, is adownwardly and forwardly inclined sheet metal chute carried by the baseof the machine. As shown in Fig. 4 the chute receives the trimmings a:and directs them away from the trimming and stitching mechanisms.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim hereinis:

1. An overedge sewing machine combining a frame, a work-supporting platecarried by said frame, overedge stitch-forming mechanism, awork-trimming mechanism, a work-feeding mechanism for feeding aworkpiece to the trimming and stitch-forming mechanisms, 2., hemfolderlocated in advance of said stitch-forming and work-feeding mechanisms,means for supporting said hem-folder from said frame above saidwork-supporting plate, and an edge-guide supported from said. framebelow said. work-supporting plate and arranged in spaced relation tosaid hem-folder, said edge-guide cooperating with the hem-folder topresent tosaid mechanisms a workpiece having a marginal portion thereoffolded'in S-shape with the lower fold in the line of seam formation andwith the projecting upper ply in the line of trimmer operation.

2. An overedge sewing machine combining a frame,"'a work-supportingplate carried by said frame, overedge stitch-forming mechanism includinga reciprocating needle and a cooperating looper, a work-trimmingmechanism, a workfeeding mechanism for feeding a workpiece to thetrimming and stitch-forming mechanisms, a hemfolder,'-including ahorizontally disposed substantially U-shaped work-folding member locatedin advance of said stitch-forming and work-feeding mechanisms, meansincluding a vertically disposed supportingelement connected to the upperarm of said member and to the upper part of said frame for supportingsaid member from said frame above said work-supporting plate, and anedge-guide located below and in spaced relation to said upper arm andsupported from said frame below said work-supporting plate, saidedge-guide cooperating with said member to present to said mechanisms aworkpiece having a marginal portion thereof folded in S-shape with thelower fold in th line of needle penetration and with the projectingupper ply in the line of trimmer operation. v

3. An overedge sewing machine combining a frame, a work-support carriedb said frame, overedge stitch-forming mechanism, a work-feedingmechanism 'for feeding a workpiece to the de G is supportedstitch-forming mechanism, a hem-folder located in advance of saidstitch-forming and work-feeding mechanisms, means for supporting saidhemiolder from said frame above said work-support and an edge-guidesupported from said frame below said work-support, said hem-folder andits supporting means being located above said edgeguide and spacedtherefrom, thereby affording an unobstructed passageway between thehem-folder and the edge-guide.

4. An overedge sewing machine combining a frame having a base portionand an upstanding portion, an overedge stitch-forming mechanismincluding a reciprocating needle and a cooperating looper, awork-feeding mechanism for feeding a workpiece to the stitch-formingmechanism, a hem-folder located in advance of said stitchforming andwork-feeding mechanisms, means for supporting said hem-folder from theupstanding portion of said frame, and an edge-guide supported from thebase portion of said frame, said edge-guide cooperating with thehem-folder to present to said mechanisms a workpiece having a marginalportion thereof folded in S-shape with the lower fold in the line ofneedle penetration, said hem-folder and said edge-guide being soarranged relative to each other as to afford therebetween anunobstructed passageway for free passage of a workpiece.

5. An overedge sewing machine combining a frame, a work-support carriedby said frame, overedge stitch-forming mechanism including areciprocating needle and a cooperating looper, a work-trimmingmechanism, a work-feeding mechanism for feeding a workpiece to thetrimming and stitch-forming mechanisms, a hemfolder located in advanceof said stitch-forming and work-feeding mechanisms, means for supportingsaid hem-folder from said frame above said work-support, an edge-guidesupported from said frame below said work-support, the rear end portionof said edge-guide being formed with a rearwardly and downwardlyinclined upper surface, said edge-guide cooperating with the hem-'folder to present to said mechanisms a workpiece having a marginalportion thereof folded in S- shape with the lower fold in the line ofneedle penetration and with the projecting upper ply in the. line oftrimmer operation and with the marginal portion thereof overlying theinclined surface of said edge-guide, and a downwardly and forwardlyinclined chute located rearwardly of said edge-guide for deflecting themarginal portion of the work trimmed off by said worktrimming mechanism.

6. An overedge sewing machine combining a frame, a work-supporting platecarried by said frame, overedge stitch-forming mechanism, awork-trimming mechanism, a work-feeding mechanism for feeding workpieceto the trimming and stitch-forming mechanisms, a hemfolder located inadvance of said stitch-forming and work-feeding mechanisms, means forsupporting said hem-folder from said frame above said work-supportingplate, an edge-guide supported from said frame below saidwork-supporting plate, said edge-guide cooperating with the hem-folderto present to said mechanisms a workpiece having a marginal portionthereof folded in S-shape with the lower fold in the line of needlepenetration and with the projecting upper ply in the line of trimmeroperation, said hemfolder and its supporting means being located above,said edge-guide and spaced vertically therefrom to afford anunobstructed passageway therebetween, said edge-guide havingtransversely disposed downwardly inclined upper surfaces for permittingthe arginal portion of :said projecting upper ply to be deflected out ofa horizontal plane, and a downwardly inclined chute for receiving anddeflecting the marginal portion of the work trimmed off by thework-trimming mechanism.

7. An overedge sewing machine combining a a frame having a base portionand an upstanding portion, overedge stitch-forming mechanism, awork-trimming mechanism, a work-feeding mechanism for feeding aworkpiece to the trimming and stitch-forming mechanisms, a hemfolderlocated in advance of said stitch-forming;

and work-feeding mechanisms, means, including a stud fitted into theupstanding portion of said frame and a bracket supported by said studand having the hem-folder connected thereto, for supporting thehem-folder from the upstanding portion of said frame, and an edge-guidesupported upon the base portion of said frame, said edge-guidecooperating with the hem-folder to present to said mechanisms aworkpiece having a marginal portion thereof folded in S-shape withtrimming and stitch-forming mechanisms, a hem-' folder located inadvance of said stitch-forming and work-feeding mechanisms, means,including a stud secured in the upstanding portion of the frame and abracket supported on said stud and having the hem-folder connectedthereto, for supporting said hem-folder from the upstanding portion ofsaid frame, said stud being adjustable in the frame parallel to the lineof feed and said .bracket being adjustable on said stud transversely ofthe line of feed, means for holding said stud and bracket in theiradjusted positions, and an edge-guide supported from said frame belowsaid work-supporting plate, said edge-guide cooperating withthehem-folder to present to said mechanisms a workpiece having amarginaiportion thereof folded in S-shape with the lower fold in the line ofneedle penetration and with the projecting upper ply in the line oftrimmer operation. 9. An overedge sewing machine combining a frame, awork-support carried by said frame, overedge stitch-forming mechanism, aworktrimming mechanism, awork-feeding mechanism for feeding a workpieceto the trimming and stitch-forming mechanism, a hem-folder located inadvance of said stitch-forming and work-feeding mechanisms and supportedby said frame wholly above the plane of said work-Support, and anedge-guide located at one side of said worksupport and supported by saidframe below-said work-support, said edge-guide cooperating with thehem-folder to present to said mechanisms a workpiece having a marginalportion thereof folded in SPshape with the lower fold in the line ofneedle penetration and with the projecting upper ply in the line oftrimmer operation.

10. An overedge sewing machine combinin a frame having a base portionand an upstanding portion, overedge stitch-forming mechanism, awork-trimming mechanism, a work-feeding mechanism for feeding aworkpiece to the trim;-

.ming and stitch-forming mechanisms, a hemupstanding portion of saidframe, a U-shaped bracket having one leg thereof connected with saidstud, said carrier being pivotally mounted between the legs of saidbracket, and an edgeguide supported by the base portion of said frame,said edge-guide cooperating with the hem-folder to present to saidmechanisms a workpiece having a marginal portion thereof folded inS-shape with the lower fold in the line of needlepenetration and withthe projecting upper ply in the lineof trimmer operation.

11. In an overedge sewing machine having a frame, a work-supportingplate, stitch-forming mechanism, work-feeding mechanism and awork-trimming mechanism; a hemming attachment for hem-folding aworkpiece and directing it to said mechanisms, comprising .a hem-foldersecured to said frame above the work-supporting plane of said plate andan edge-guide cooperating with said hem-folder secured to said framebelow said plane and independently of the support for the hem-folder,

12. In an overedge sewing machine having a frame, a work-supportingplate, stitch-forming mechanism, work-feeding mechanism and awork-trimming mechanism; a hemming attachment for hem-folding aworkpiece and .directing it to said mechanisms comprising a hem-foldingblade, a carrier to which said blade is, secured, a supporting bracketon which said carrier is .pivotally mounted, a stud secured in saidframe above said carrier, means securing said bracket to said stud, anedge-guide cooperating withsaid hem-folding blade, and means securingsaid edgeguide to said frame below said work-supporting plate. r

13. In an overedge sewing machine having a frame, a work-support,stitch-forming mechanism, work-feeding mechanism and a work-trimmingmechanism; a hemming attachment for hem-folding a workpiece anddirecting it to said mechanisms comprising a hem-foldingblade, a carrierto which said blade is secured, a vertically disposed supporting brackethaving its upper end secured to said frame, means pivotally mountingsaid carrier on said bracket, means for adjusting said brackethorizontally in transverse directions, an edge-guide cooperating withsaid hem-folding blade, and means for supporting said edge-guide forhorizontal floating movements.

14. In an overedge sewing machine having a frame, a work-support,stitch-forming mechanism, work-feeding mechanism and a work-trimmingmechanism; a hemming attachment for hem-folding a workpiece anddirecting it to said mechanisms comprising a hem-folding blade, acarrier to which said blade is secured, a'vertically disposed brackethaving its upper and secured to said frame, means pivotally mountingsaid carrier on said bracket, means for limiting the pivotal movement ofsaid carrier on said bracket, an edge-guide cooperating with saidhem-folder, and means for supporting said edge-guide from said framebelow and independently of said bracket.

15. In an overedge sewing machine having a frame, a, horizontallydisposed work-support, stitch-formin mechanism, work-feeding mechanismanda work-trimming mechanism; a hemming attachment for hem-folding aworkpiece and directing it to said mechanisms comprising a verticallydisposed bracket having its upper end secured to said frame above thelevel of said work-support, the lower end of said bracket being adaptedto support any one of a plurality of carrier-blocks each fitted with adifferent form of hem-folding blade each of which is designed to form ans-shaped fold inthe marginal portion of a workpiece, and an edge-guidesupported on said frame below said work-support and cooperating withsaid hem-folding blades in directing the folded workpiece to saidmechanisms.

16. In an overedge sewing machine having a frame, a worksupport,stitch-forming mechanism, work-feeding mechanism and a worktrimmingmechanism; a hemming attachment for hem-folding a workpiece anddirecting it to said mechanisms comprising a supporting bracket securedto said frame, a carrier pivotally secured to said bracket, ahem-folding'blade pivotally mounted on said carrier on an axis parallelto the pivotal axis of said carrier, and an edgeguide supported by saidframe and icooperating with said hem-folding blade. j

1'7. In an overedge sewing machine having a frame, a work-support,stitch-forming mechanism, work-feeding mechanism and a work-trimmingmechanism; a hemming attachment for hem-folding a workpiece anddirecting it to said mechanisms comprising a vertically disposedsupporting bracket-secured at its upper end to said frame, a carrierpivotally mounted on the lower portion of said bracket, means forlimiting the pivotal movement of said carrier on said bracket,

a hem-folding blade pivotallymounted on said carrieronan axis parallelto the pivotal axis of the carrier, and an edge-guide supported by saidframe and cooperating with said hem-folding blade.

, 18. In an overedgesewing machine having a frame, a work-support,stitch-forming mechanism, work-feeding mechanism and a worktrimmingmechanism; a hemming attachment for hem-folding a workpiece anddirecting it to said mechanisms comprising a vertically disposedsupporting bracket secured at its upper end to said frame, a carrierpivotally mounted on the lower portion of said bracket, means forlimiting the pivotal movement of said carrier on said bracket, ahem-folding blade pivotally mounted on said carrier on an axis parallelto the pivotal axis of the carrier, spring means normally tending toturn said hem-folding blade upwardly about its pivotal axis, and amanually releasable latch for holding said blade in its operativeposition in opposition to said springmeans.

19. In an overedge sewing machine having a frame, a work-support,stitch-forming mechanism, work-feeding mechanism and a worktrimmingmechanism; a hemming attachment for hem-folding a workpiece anddirectingit to said mechanisms comprising a vertically disposed supportingbracket secured at its upper end to said frame, a carrier pivotallymounted on the lower portion of said bracket, means for limiting thepivotal movement of said carrier on said bracket, a hem-folding bladepivotally mounted on said carrier on an axis parallel to the pivotalaxis of the carrier, spring means normally tending to turn saidhem-folding blade upwardly about its pivotal axis, a latch for holdingsaid blade in its operative position in opposition to said spring means,a latch-releasing lever mounted on said carrier and having a manuallyengageable portion projecting upwardly above the carrier, and anedge-guide supported by said frame and cooperating with said hem-foldingblade.

20. In an overedgesewing machine having a frame, a work-support,stitch-forming mechanism, work-feeding mechanism and a work-trimmingmechanism; a hemming attachment for hem-folding a workpiece anddirecting it to said mechanisms comprising a vertically disposedsupporting bracket secured at its upper end to said frame, a carrierpivotally mounted on the lower portion of said bracket, means forlimiting the pivotal movement of said carrier on said bracket, a memberpivotally mounted on said carrier and provided with a cam surface and aretaining notch, a hem-folding blade secured to said member, springmeans acting on saidmember and normally tending toturn the member andthe blade carried thereby upwardly about the pivotal axis of the member,a spring-pressed latch element mounted on said carrier and normallyengaging said notch tohold said member and blade in their lowermostpositions, and a finger-piece mounted on said carrier and engaging saidlatch element'to withdrawit from said notch to permit limited upwardmovement of said member under the influence of said spring means, saidlatch element reacting upon said cam surface, when said 49 finger-pieceis released, togive to said member further upward movement, 7

21. In an overedge sewing machine having a frame, a work-support,stitch-forming mechanism, work-feeding mechanism and a work-trimmingmechanism; a hemming attachment for hem-folding a workpiece anddirecting it to said mechanisms, comprising a hem-folder secured to saidframe above the plane of said work-support, an edge-guide cooperatingwith said hem-folder and secured to said frame below the plane of saidwork-support and means for adjusting saidhemfolder horizontally in aplurality of directions relative to the line of seam formation.

NICHOLAUS KNAUS.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS

